ADVENTURER  THE FIRST INSIDERS    GUIDE TO G E O R G I A  ISSUE  5 AUTUMN 2019  AUTUMN IN GEORGIA Smells Like Amber Honey ...
PAY EAS  With your T 1234
ASILY AND SECURELY  ur TBC card using Apple Pay
4  EDITOR   S LETTER  A  s the hottest tourist season is nearing the end, it slowly takes a back seat to the most colorful...
Shopping and Entertainment City  Tbilisi, Kakheti Highway , 2 AI. Tvalchrelidze st
CONTRIBUTORS  Late autumn travel has its unique charm, and I really hope that it is already too chilly in Georgia to walk ...
8  CONTENTS  page  104  GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES 12   The Guardian, New Statesman America, Food Fun Travel B...
10 85   Jakeli Organic Vineyard   Wines 86   Marani Ruispiri Kakheti, Kvareli Area 87   Artanuli Gvino   Gogo Wine 88   Te...
12  GEORGIA IN THE  International Headlines Photo by Tommo J Williams  Book Baia   s meal and wine tasting  from   11  on ...
13 Modern Georgia, however, is desperate to distance itself from its association with Russia, its giant neighbour. As rece...
Image courtesy Ryanair  14   GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES  How Ryanair   s Cheap Flights to Georgia Will Change ...
15  Photo by Maya Oren.  piece of the proverbial khachapuri by building guest houses and creating services for tourists. G...
16   GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES by double digits. The U.S., one of Georgia   s strategic markets, saw imports ...
17  MY PERSONAL FAVORITE Daria Kholodilina blogger, travel planner  WHAT TO EAT IN THE FIRST PLACE  One of my favorite reg...
Khinkali P L AC E S
19  M  any Georgians believe that the best meatwrapped-and-boiled-in-a-dough-sack is made in Georgia. The local Georgian v...
20   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Tbilisi  AMO RAME   on Saturdays   This small Old Tbilisi home houses a cafe with a p...
21  Kojori Highway 7 km, Tbilisi Call  599 20 90 80 Serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, and drinks  KOLKHETI in Okrok...
22   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Tbilisi  8 Mtskheta Str., Tbilisi Call  558 55 71 00 Serves lunch, dinner and drinks....
23 us of Soviet-era Tbilisi   include mamalo candies to lick and lick and lick... Many guests, however, come here for khin...
24   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Tbilisi  ZAKHAR ZAKHARICH  This restaurant is located under Dry Bridge. For quite som...
25  KLIKE   S KHINKALI  A sea of recommendations and advertising compelled me to visit Klike   s Khinkali Diner. My assess...
26   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Tbilisi  23 Shota Rustaveli Ave. Call  595 24 90 09 12 00 PM 10 30 PM  CAFE DAPHNA  I...
27  bakes great organic mchadi  the corn-bread  with sunflower seeds, chopped walnuts and other nuts. I guess he uses not ...
28   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Near Mtskheta  TELA  near Saguramo People often ask us  Where can we find good khinka...
29  Telavi  ZODIAQO  Open  Every day 11 00 AM 12 00 AM Call  035 023 04 05  Zodiaqo  in the Zuzumbo Neighborhood Zuzumbo i...
30   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Kazbegi  TSANARETI  in the village of Arsha The village of Arsha is located right off...
31  Pshavi  TSOLIS TSREMLEBI GAZEBOS  near Chargali, Pshavi On the left side of the Barisakho-Shatili-bound road, shortly ...
32   FOOD   DRINKS  KHINKALI PLACES  Pasanauri  KORBUDA  in Pasanauri, Mtiuleti After you pass the Pasanauri Settlement on...
33  New Hot Spots PURI GULIANI  Bakery, Cafe, Dessert Shop Thanks to Georgian traditional bread, many tourists already kno...
34   FOOD   DRINKS  NEW HOT SPOTS lunch, but also for a late dinner and drinks  especially on Saturday evenings . As for l...
35  Green Hideaway CISKARI  Restaurant. Cafe. Social Club. This section of Kus Tba  Turtle    At first, we wanted Lake , k...
36   FOOD   DRINKS  GREEN HIDEAWAY  for dealing with crises in life, and setting a precedent for professional assistance a...
37 It also loves risotto with a mushroom mix, gnocchi, pasta, ribs with adjika hot sauce, and burgers with picante sauces....
38   FOOD   DRINKS  Up on the Funicular D I N I N G I N A R E S TAU R A N T OV E R LO O K I N G T B I L I S I     S PA S T...
39 this feeling that the restaurant has many magnificent, glorious stories to tell walking down memory lane. Except that t...
40   FOOD   DRINKS  UP ON THE FUNICULAR features of Georgia   s regions.    We have a small Georgia here,    he says and l...
41 mind sharp and vision keen.    He never tires of traveling     Together with seven other cooks, I   m about to travel t...
BEST  Wine Bars IN TBILISI
44   FOOD   DRINKS  BEST WINE BARS IN TBILISI  ARISTAEUS ETHNO WINE BAR Aristaeus Ethno Wine Bar   one of the finest estab...
45  SHUMI WINE BAR  J, Jan Shardeni Str., Tbilisi  Shumi Wine Bar is the best place for those seeking quality time in the ...
46   FOOD   DRINKS  BEST WINE BARS IN TBILISI  SULICO Sulico Wine Bar will undoubtedly captivate you with its Old Tbilisi ...
47  8000 VINTAGES 8000 Vintages is a bar wine shop with two branches in Tbilisi  one at 60 Abashidze Street in Vake and th...
48   FOOD   DRINKS  BEST WINE BARS IN TBILISI  LAGAZA WINE BAR  2 Pekini Str. Open everyday from 12 00 PM - 1 00 AM Call  ...
 995 322 40 30 90 10 LERMONTOV STREET  WINEOBSERVATORY WINEOBSERVATORY  WWW.IOTAHOTELS.COM
50   QUEST  A QUEST FOR  Georgian Folk Music Text by Shawn Basey  F  olk music has a property of transportation to it. Iri...
51  THE STATE MUSEUM OF GEORGIAN FOLK SONGS  6 Samghebro Str. Tel. 032 245 77 21 3 lari entrance, 5 lari for tour  My firs...
52   QUEST  just about zero information on them. With the tour, they show you a video, which has samples of each instrumen...
53     Tbilisi folk music, or as they called it,    city music   , tended to be the most eclectic.     no second layer of ...
54   QUEST  V. S A R A J I S H V I L I T B I L I S I S TAT E C O N S E RVATO I R E  The Conservatory is the premiere place...
55 the end of her nose. First in my Georgian, I asked,    Do you speak English        No.       Can you help me find some ...
56   QUEST  THE FOLKLORE STATE CENTRE OF GEORGIA After visiting here, it doesn   t seem to me that they really exist for t...
57  WELCOME TO GEORGIA A performance full of kitsch and cheesiness, it still does a solid job of giving you a display of a...
58   QUEST  OLD CITY WALL For something a bit more upscale and in the old town, Old City Wall is a great destination. With...
59  IN THE SHADOW OF METEKHI One of my favorites for a more upscale dining experience. Across from the Sheraton and perche...
60   Q A  SAY HELLO TO A GEORGIAN WINEMAKER   Wine Tourism Trendsetter  INTERVIEW WITH NUTSA ABRAMISHVILI, CEO OF SCHUCHMA...
61 and 120-hectare vineyards allows for enjoying the views of both the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains. We offer...
62   Q A  wine. And that   s why we rolled out a wine spa, a service unprecedented in the region. After working in the vin...
63 quality is a special obligation, because the company is named after a German philanthropist, and it is the duty of Schu...
64   VISIT TO THE ARTIST   S STUDIO  Keta Gavasheli   Andria Dolidze Text by Nini Darchia        I had to split out lukewa...
65 When at work, Keta and Andria always pay due attention to space by transforming it into a part of their creation. Their...
66   VISIT TO THE ARTIST   S STUDIO means being in the spotlight, under everyone   s microscope. You just keep going, and ...
SHOT-OUT BATUMI  RECOMMENDED TOUR   67  Oranges  BY THE NOVEMBER SEA There is a time to plant the tangerines, and time to ...
68   SHOUT - OUT  OLD BATUMI  The Inaishvili Residence     a Landmark in Old Batumi Text by Nino Kvirikashvili  I  became ...
69  like the house, she is beautiful. She tells me how much she loves the house. Forget about love, she   s bound to it. T...
70   SHOUT - OUT  OLD BATUMI wooden logs, and the d  cor has never changed, though the paintings have faded away, with wat...
71  through the house with angels depicted on its walls. The entrance hall is in itself a monument of cultural heritage. I...
Sabah  n  z xeyir                      Linguistic Polyphony and the Caucasus Text by Maka Tetradze Ilustration  Mariam Gig...
istence of speech and ethnicities as in Georgia. Here you can find ethnicities speaking their own vernacular languages   b...
WHY  the Qvevri AND WHY  Georgian Wine Text by Natia Mskhiladze
W  e Georgians have harvested wine grapes 8,000 times. In other words, we Georgians have been continuously making wine for...
76   WINE ROUTE method of qvevri winemaking on its List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In light of all t...
77 transitional post-Soviet period. And if the country has saved many varieties from ruin, and preserved the qvevri techno...
78   WINE ROUTE  Kakheti, Sagarejo Area ANTADZE WINES Niki Antadze  The founding father of this particular winery is Niki ...
79  2 Kazbegi Str., Sagarejo Call  599 94 23 45  TEDO   S MARANI Tedo Gzirishvili  Tedo Gzirishvili has been making wine s...
80   WINE ROUTE  Kakheti, Signagi Area PHEASANT   S TEARS  KHOKHBIS TSREMLEBI  John Wurdeman  Pheasant   s Tears Winery   ...
81 it to take your time outside of Signagi, enjoy this beautiful vineyard, and have a custommade dinner there. The food is...
82   WINE ROUTE the cozy Lost Ridge Inn in the village of Qedeli, close enough to enjoy a comfortable walk to Georgia   s ...
83  OKRO   S WINES John Okruashvili  John Okruashvili, just like Nikoloz Antadze, represents the first generation of natur...
84   WINE ROUTE  Kakheti, Telavi Area GHVARDZELASHVILI   S MARANI Giorgi Ghvardzelashvili  Ghvardzelashvili   s Marani pro...
85  Vardisubani, Telavi Call 599 77 70 79  JAKELI ORGANIC VINEYARD   WINES Zaza Jakeli  The famous Jakeli family of organi...
86   WINE ROUTE  TELAVI AREA  MARANI RUISPIRI Giorgi Aladashvili     It   s the most amazing philosophy of winemaking I ha...
87  Kakheti, Kvareli Area ARTANULI GVINO   GOGO WINE Kakha and Keti Berishvili  The winery started in 2006 by fermenting w...
88   WINE ROUTE  KVARELI AREA  TEMI WINE AND SOCIAL INTERPRISE  Temi is a community and social enterprise based in the vil...
89  Kartli IAGO   S WINERY Iago Bitarishvili  Iago Bitarishvili is also one of the first natural winemakers in Georgia. Al...
90   WINE ROUTE  KARTLI  WINE ARTISANS Andro Barnovi  Wine Artisans Chateau is a natural winery near Gori, established by ...
91  NIKA VACHEISHVILI S MARANI AND WINE GUEST HOUSE Nika Vacheishvili is an expert in his fields of history and cultural h...
92   WINE ROUTE  KARTLI Wines, and Atenuri the Noble  Tsarchinebuli . The wine   s exceptional properties are due to the l...
93  Meskheti NATENADZE   S WINE CELLAR Giorgi Natenadz     My region Samtskhe-Javakheti  Meskheti  was occupied for 4 cent...
94   WINE ROUTE  MESKHETI  PHANASKERTELI WINERY Kakha Aspanidze  Saro, Aspindza  Kakha also produces Meskhetian wine with ...
95 They also have chacha produced using ancient brewing methods, this classical spirit is made from Tsolikouri, Tsitska, a...
96   WINE ROUTE  RACHA  19 year-old Mariam Margvelidze is another reason to visit the region. She returned to her abandone...
97  KHVANCHKARA WINERY Aleko Sardanashvili  This is a very special, old Rachan house with beautiful wooden ornaments and v...
98   WINE ROUTE  Samegrelo ODA FAMILY WINERY Zaza Gagua and Keto Ninidze 6 Tbilisi Str., Martvili Call  598 90 03 79  This...
99  SALKHINO MONASTERY WINE CELLAR Salkhino is regarded to be the wine center of Samegrelo. This particular wine cellar is...
100   WINE ROUTE  TARGAMEULI WINE CELLAR  Targameuli, Martvili Call  598 92 02 34  This beautiful wine cellar with its vin...
photo credit    Women in Georgia  101    For some period of time village life for a woman was difficult. Moreover, the win...
102   WINE ROUTE  Adjara ILIA   S WINE CELLAR Ilia Malakmadze  This young man Ilia Malakmadze can tell his story quite eff...
103  MY PERSONAL FAVORITE Nodar Latibashvili, farmer. His farm is located on the Iori Riverbank, by the road to Davit-Gare...
B R I E F LY If you haven   t seen Mount Ushba or Tetnuldi with their peaks growing above the clouds, or have not caught a...
Svanetian HYMN TO THE SUN Text by Tinatin Mosiashvili Journalist and tour guide
106   SVANETI  Some History    The Svans are foremost in courage and in power. At any rate, they are masters of the people...
107  the Lentekhi Settlement and Municipality, there are 4.3 people, with only 947 populating Lentekhi itself. It   s not ...
108   SVANETI South of the ridge one finds the upper section of the Tskhenistskali River Valley, Kvemo Svaneti, and the Le...
109  Road and Travel Traveling through Svaneti is an exciting experience. I first visited the region in 1997, when I joine...
110   SVANETI  For flight information, please visit  vanillasky. omedialab.com  PRICES  Flights The ride to Natakhtari is ...
111 depends on the transport, accommodation, and services, of course. My advice, go with an experienced travel agency and ...
112   SVANETI  Dining  Besides family-owned hotels in Svaneti, and in Mestia in particular, there are numerous roadhouses,...
113  Gas stations and branches of large banks also operate in Mestia. Almost all major banks run ATMs. Plastic cards are a...
114   SVANETI    The modern-day Svans are the descendants of one of the most ancient ethnic Georgian tribes. The Svanetian...
115 the Tskhenistskali Valley to Muri Castle, near Tsageri , Baliskvemo Svaneti, also known as Sadadeshkeliano  the wester...
116   SVANETI confident that Svaneti will be recognized as a unique surviving island of early European culture,    Davit L...
117 George   s Icon by goldsmith Asani, Icons of the 40 Martyrs of Sebaste and of the Crucifixion, and numerous liturgical...
118   SVANETI watchtowers in the mountains. In case of an oncoming threat, the guards would burn straw on a top of the fir...
119 similar living infrastructure can be found in the town of Mestia and in the village of Latali. Svaneti is also famous ...
120   SVANETI   currently Lentekhi district  fell under the patronage of the Samegrelo Principality of Dadiani. Whereas th...
121 times and a leader of the army in wars. The Convention was the supreme institution in the legal hierarchy  it was not ...
122   SVANETI  Khevi  community  Convention that would make a decision on banishing the offender from the community and bu...
123 paradise for pilgrims. Orthodox Christians can choose from almost 200 churches found here. In the heart of the Mestia ...
124   SVANETI you may want to visit the villages and churches of the Adishi Community. If you happen to be visiting Kvemo ...
125  The Ushguli Community consists of 4 villages  Murkmeli, Chazhashi  community center , Chvibiani, and Zhibiani. Chazha...
126   SVANETI  Other villages  Every community in Mestia, and in Svaneti as a whole, deserves special mention. Khaishi, Ch...
127  of the glorious Lileo hymn of the sun and other Svanetian tunes, or watching Svanetian dances, or embracing their tou...
Besides banking and financial operations, TBC, Georgia   s second largest bank, is known for supporting and implementing v...
Art   Culture  G E O R G I A N N AT I O N A L M U S E U M  by Tamar Esakia  DZALISA MUSEUM In the 1970s, archeologists dis...
130   ART   CULTURE  GEORGIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM  photo by Georgian National Museum  heating systems, and changing rooms. Nea...
131 military section at the museum for immortalizing the achievements and victories of the Russian army in the Caucasus. T...
132   ART   CULTURE  GEORGIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM portant dates, facts, and locations related to the subjugation of the Caucas...
133 artistic expedition in partnership with the Georgian Society for History and Ethnography. As a result, a group of arti...
134   ART   CULTURE  GEORGIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM National Art Gallery. On November 18, 1933, the Soviet authorities handed th...
135  Gudiashvili   s works. A qualitatively new period in the life of the National Art Gallery   or the Blue Gallery as it...
136   ART   CULTURE  GEORGIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM books, exhibition catalogs, jewelry, accessories, and many other interesting...
137  features individual discoveries and whole treasuries consisting of both Georgian and foreign coins. The collection   ...
138  A glass of Thoughts  T  his time we   re reviewing four wines with exceptionally exciting characters, those manufactu...
139 in color, and its flavor betrays sweetish aromas like caramelized nuts and sweet spices. This wine is perfect with roa...
140 ENTERTAINMENT  Autumn 2019  A R T A N D S H OW S I N T B I L I S I  TBILISI INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF THEATRE 25 Septe...
141 dedicating himself entirely to his world   s creation process with no distractions. And from then on     the sky is th...
142   ENTERTAINMENT  D  KK  October 19  D  kk is developed using openFrameworks and powered by NOITOM   s MOCAP Perception...
143  GURDJIEFF  HARTMANN MUSIC EVENT     ELAN SICROFF, US  October 12  Gurdjieff Institute Tbilisi proudly presents events...
144   ENTERTAINMENT  DAVID MESKHI     KEEP FALLING  NATA SOPROMADZE     DEATH SHOP  29 August - 13 October Opening  29 Aug...
145 blood during mountain celebrations, fading plants, cemeteries, NATA SOPROMADZE lifeless animals left on the roads    I...
146   ENTERTAINMENT  INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF ARTS GIFT  SACHUKARI  October 19     November 16  13 November  Natalia Mene...
TBILISI COMPETES FOR A PRESTIGIOUS TITLE  European Best Destinations 2020  T  bilisi has been selected among the top 20 tr...
148   ENTERTAINMENT  WELCOME TO GEORGIA     THE MUSICAL   SEASON 4 A musical, romantic theatrical play telling a story abo...