ADVENTURER  THE FIRST INSIDERS    GUIDE TO G E O R G I A  ISSUE  4 SUMMER 2019  SUMMER ROMANCE with Georgia
4  EDITOR   S LETTER  A  lmost hours after Vladimir Putin   s ban on flights to Georgia in response to massive anti-Russia...
Shopping and Entertainment City  Tbilisi, Kakheti Highway , 2 AI. Tvalchrelidze st
CONTRIBUTORS Natia Akhalashvili  Not many things come close to the joy of discovering new flavors. And restaurants, more t...
8  CONTENTS  page  52  GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES 12   The New Yorker, Medium, Grub Street, Fortune, Los Angel...
 995 322 40 30 90 10 LERMONTOV STREET  WINEOBSERVATORY WINEOBSERVATORY  WWW.IOTAHOTELS.COM
10  page  112  MY PERSONAL FAVORITE  page  44  Daria Kholodinina 17 Tini Nogaideli-Michel 91 Sergi Gvarjaladze 131  AT THE...
12  GEORGIA IN THE  The Culinary Muse of the Caucasus By Lauren Collins As Americans look to Georgia for inspiration, Geor...
13  Into the Caucasus and Back in Time Henry Wismayer  The Georgian Cooking at Chelsea   s Chama Mama Is Gobsmackingly Goo...
14   GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES  Georgia, too, relied on the Russian market until a decade ago.    Georgia los...
15  Khachapuri, Ancient Stuffed Crust Pizza, Is One Of LA   s Hottest Dishes By Claire Downs Thanks to the debut of single...
16   GEORGIA IN THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES  Bone Collector. This Caucasus Ghost Town May Be the Creepiest Place on Earth ...
Best Restaurants Text by Natia Akhalashvili
19  Green Hideaways W I N E FAC TO RY   1  G  hvinis Karkhana  1     Wine Factory    in Georgian  in the Vera neighborhood...
20   BEST RESTAURANTS  GREEN HIDEAWAYS  leads out into a small round balcony where you may encounter people seeking peace ...
21  STREET FOOD SPACE  A  s mentioned above, Shushabandi overlooks a vast terrace, which is actually Street Food Space, wh...
22   BEST RESTAURANTS  GREEN HIDEAWAYS  Veris Duqani is modeled after a typical Tbilisi diner from the 19th century. Bakra...
23  PINZERIA BY BONTEMPI  We wrote about this place in our previous issue, but it so perfectly harmonizes with the Wine Fa...
24   BEST RESTAURANTS  GREEN SPACES NEAR TBILISI  CHVENI EZO RESTAURANT near Bulachauri Restaurant Chveni Ezo     Our Yard...
25  ZGHAPARI RESTAURANT  near Tzitzamuri Zghapari is a genuine paradise of Imereti cuisine just 10 minutes by car from Tbi...
26   BEST RESTAURANTS  GREEN SPACES NEAR TBILISI  RESTAURANT AGARAKI  in Betania Just 20 minutes from Tbilisi, on the Kojo...
27  Bohemian Hotspots NEW IN TBILISI  Text by Nini Darchia  THEY SAID BOOKS  10 Akhvlediani str. They Said books is a conc...
28   BEST RESTAURANTS  GREEN SPACES NEAR TBILISI store features IDEA, the exclusive supplier of books for London   s conce...
29  32 Vasil Barnovi Str. Vera Area Call  0322 98 54 39 Open  12 PM - 11 PM Serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee and dr...
30   BEST RESTAURANTS  Non Georgian I M M I G R A N T S CO O K  CHINESE RESTAURANT NEW ASIA This restaurant has two branch...
31  Conference spaces AT IOTA HOTEL TBILISI  10 Lermontov Street, Tbilisi Call  032 2 40 30 70  I  OTA HOTEL TBILISI in th...
BAR HUNTING  in Tbilisi Bars visited and reviewed by local party-goer Nini Sparsiashvili.
34   BAR HUNTING IN TBILISI  20 Paolo Iashvili Street, Tbilisi Saelcho is open every day, from noon to 1 AM Call  577 99 9...
35  IN THE HOUSE OF MELIK-AZARYANTS The former residence of 19th century Tbilisi-based grand merchant Melik-Azaryants  see...
36   BAR HUNTING IN TBILISI  DRAMA BAR  If, after having sated yourself with drinking and having fun at Prince, you feel l...
37  DOSE Dose differs from the bars above in that it is located in Old Tbilisi, a neighborhood with lots of tourists. In t...
38   BAR HUNTING IN TBILISI  BARI-BARSHI 9 Kikodze Street Open from 6  PM to 3 AM on  Fridays and Saturdays and from 6 pm ...
New hotspot IN THE OLD CENTER  T  he rehabilitation of Orbeliani Square and the surrounding area has been completed. 20 bu...
40   SHOPPING  Where to shop NEW BRAND  K  SHKASH is a Georgia-based brand manufacturing face and body care products, offe...
41  We believe in the sun  We believe that the sun lives in each of us and every time we shine from inside, we create beau...
42   SHOPPING Chaos is a multi-brand store complemented by the recently opened vegetarian Chaos Caf  . Chaos showcases exc...
ADVERTISING   43  Black Tomato HOSTEL   WINE BAR  17 Merab Kostava Street, Kutaisi.  B  lack Tomato is a vintage hostel an...
44   STORY  SAY HELLO TO A GEORGIAN WINEMAKER   Baia Abuladze, Baia   s Wine SHORT PROFILE  Baia Abuladze is the founder o...
45  T  he winery itself is also a vibrant tourism destination hosting scores of wine and culinary tourists. You can easily...
46   STORY our ancestors, something that was always the source of joy in our home as far back as I can remember. To me, ma...
47  You should see her, a skinny girl, tending vineyards with a sprayer on her back   have started selling it in the local...
48   STORY Q  Where do you see the Georgian wine sector ten years from now  Based on what would you make this calculation ...
49     The taste of Georgian wine is the taste of the most ancient wine...     terms of terroir beneficial for quality gra...
50   VISIT TO THE ARTIST   S STUDIO  Tamar Nadiradze   s Space  M  eet artist Tamar Nadiradze, 27. She has completed an il...
51 best help me convey the intellectual, as well as more gentle, emotional, aspects of my paintings.  speak. For example, ...
52  Swimming Pools  AT T WO A M A Z I N G LO C AT I O N S O F R A D I S S O N B L U I V E R I A H OT E L  TBILISI SPA CENT...
53  BATUMI RETREAT A tranquil and wonderful retreat besides the Black Sea, the Anne Semonin Wellness   Spa Center at Radis...
54   SWIMMING POOLS  KRTSANISI POOL Summer is around the corner, which means that those who are too busy to get out of the...
55  HOLIDAY INN The Holiday Inn pool, found at 1 May 26 Square in Tbilisi, is the best choice sunshine and swimming fans c...
56   SWIMMING POOLS  TBILISI YACHT CLUB    RESTAURANT LA COTE Tbilisi Yacht Club   Restaurant La Cote on the Tbilisi Sea i...
57  SCHUCHMANN WINES CHATEAU VILLAS AND SPA This resort is a 10-minute drive from Telavi, Kakheti, and is equipped with al...
Coastal Adjara What associations does Adjara bring to your mind  Is it Batumi  Any particular landmark  Maybe the Boulevar...
60   AT THE SEASIDE  COASTAL ADJARA  L  et   s start with Sarpi, a coastal village divided into two sections. One part is ...
61 Lazi songs, try local dishes, and familiarize themselves with Lazi handicrafts. Besides in Sarpi, Lazis also live in Kv...
62   AT THE SEASIDE  COASTAL ADJARA  San Stefano. The ancient Greek historian and philosopher Arrian links the story of th...
63 in Chakvi with its exceptional architecture. The idea of opening a tea museum here has yet to materialize. Still, we re...
64   AT THE SEASIDE  Panorama Kvariati  K  variati is a small village divided years ago by a highway into two sections, se...
ADVERTISING   65  fun, however noisy it may be. Soon, however, this peace and quiet will be replaced by an upcoming hotel ...
66   AT THE SEASIDE  Off the Beach W H AT TO S E E I N A DJA R A  Text by Manana Qveliashvili  I  f all that Adjara brings...
67  MTIRALA NATIONAL PARK  In the village of Chakvistavi, near the visitor information center by the entrance of Mtirala N...
68   AT THE SEASIDE  OFF THE BEACH  Services  A zip-line ride costs 15 GEL, and the adventure park offers two routes  the ...
69 advised to visit the village of Zemo Chkhutuneti. Its ancient mosque presently houses a museum of ethnography and prese...
70   AT THE SEASIDE  OFF THE BEACH The second route is called Kokoletis Biliki, a path you can cover either by car or on f...
71  SKHALTA  The Skhalta Gorge best illustrates the diversity of Adjara. Down the Batumi-Khulo-Akhaltsikhe Highway, you wi...
72   AT THE SEASIDE  OFF THE BEACH warriors washed their mud-covered feet, and the mud piled up to form a hill. The road t...
73 If you decide to embark on this route, make sure you visit the 10th-12th cc. Khikhani Fortress built on a steep slope a...
74   AT THE SEASIDE  OFF THE BEACH Sundried kuruti can be stored for a whole year. The population of mountainous Adjara is...
75  Where to Eat,  D R I N K   DA N C E I N B AT U M I  Text by Ia Prangishvili, Batumi-based special reporter  T  he anci...
76   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  VINYL BAR  12 Nodar Dumbadze Str. Era  Europe  Square is one of the most...
77  CAF   K2  12-14 Nodar Dumbadze Str. Caf   K2 is found next to Vinyl, arranged in a quaint Italian courtyard on Europe ...
78   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  CONTE BAR  1 5 Zviad Gamsakhurdia Str. Conte Bar is housed in the Contem...
79  LEUVILLE  1 Gorgiladze Str.  Leuville, just 5 minutes from Era Square, is a caf   bakery drawing on French and Georgia...
80   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  Recommendations FOR ADJARULI KHACHAPURI  Text and illustrations by Paata...
Acharian Khachapuri  Cheese Bread  Old truth, tried and tested, and trusted  You are what you eat, So four times a week, I...
82   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  UOLLI RESTAURANT  43 Memed Abashidze Ave.  UOLLI Restaurant is housed in...
83  CAF  -BAR FANFAN  27 Egnate Ninoshvili Str. On the crossing of Egnate Ninoshvili and Melikishvili Streets, near the en...
84   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE part of town just 15 minutes after you place your order. SOLO Pizza   s k...
85  DELIRIA RESTAURANT  8 Kazbegi Str.  Deliria is a family-style thematic restaurant occupying an old Batumi-type mansion...
86   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  years ago. The building   s first floor is occupied by a pub, second by ...
87  LUCA POLARE  3 Irakli Abashidze street   Boulevard, near restaurant    New ship      Boulevard, near hotel    Sheraton...
88   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  SCHUCHMANN WINE BOUTIQUE AND STORE  1 Memed Abashidze Str.  On Memed Aba...
89  GELATO TRENTO  Konstantine Gamsakhurdia Str. Gelato Trento is also housed in the city   s central neighborhood, at 9 M...
90   AT THE SEASIDE  WHERE TO EAT, DRINK   DANCE  performers. Tired of dancing  You can snuggle on the white staircase wit...
91  MY PERSONAL FAVORITE Tini Nogaideli-Michel, an English teacher in Lyon, France and singer for TINIKO, a Franco-Georgia...
FACTS    You don   t need to wait for death to see Paradise   you can always come to Tusheti,    Tusheti resident Soso Bab...
HOW BEAUTIFUL IS  Tusheti Text by Tinatin Mosiashvili Journalist and tour guide
94   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI     B  Information about road conditions is available on the hotline of the Road Department ...
95  The last school in the region, in Omalo, was abolished years ago. The region   s practically untouched virgin forests,...
96   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  Road and travel  Allocate at least 3-4 days to travel to Tusheti, maybe even more but not f...
97  The story of Zezva   s gray horse Mountains have always been the traditional habitat of the Tushetians. It was only la...
98   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  Transport  Sviana Waterfall  While your guide is telling this story, the car approaches the...
99 Tushetians always commemorate travelers. Both in the past and today, shepherds spend 3-4 days ascending the mountains f...
100   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI Torghvas Abano marks the beginning of vertiginous turns making it harder and harder for a c...
101 supplied to Tusheti either. There was power in some villages under communist rule, but the grid was damaged at some po...
102   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  Where the Alazani is born, or more about geography Tusheti   s total area is 796 km2 at 90...
103 had settlements in these territories as early as the 8th-9th century BC. According to the 18th century historian Vakhu...
104   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  A celebration starts with a procession of the cross, followed by the cleric, known as the ...
105 in the grove to your left. Nearby you will also find a hotel. This place is the beginning of Kvemo Omalo. It used to b...
106   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI floor served as the men   s bedrooms and quarters in general. In between there were two flo...
107  What to see   We have already mentioned the Agency of Protected Areas and Keselo. Beautiful churches have survived fr...
108   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  You can take a car to Kumelaurta, and then walk and ride a horse for 6 kilometers. To rent...
109 highest village in Europe,    reads the sign erected a few years ago near the first village, Bochorna. Irakli Khvedagu...
110   HOW BEAUTIFUL IS TUSHETI  You can also check out the website of the Agency of Protected Areas   a room, you can alwa...
111 Make sure you try traditional Tushetian sheep or cow cheese, Tushetian-style khinkali dumplings, and kotori cheese bre...
FACT Ever since the time when, according to tradition, Saint Nino converted Georgia to Christianity, this most beautiful h...
Khevsureti  A TREKKING PARADISE OF MEDIEVAL TOWERS AND NATURAL BEAUTY Text by Tinatin Mosiashvili Journalist and tour guid...
114   KHEVSURETI  Directions  First, you head west from Tbilisi, and turn north after passing Mtskheta. Follow the road to...
115  of God. Even today, one comes across two types of footpaths reserved exclusively for men and women, respectively. As ...
116   KHEVSURETI  You can also enjoy a horseback tour in Khevsureti, a service offered by several hotels. To book your hor...
117  Khevsurs on the other side of the Caucasus  There are almost 30 villages on this side of the Caucasus in the Barisakh...
118   KHEVSURETI  there may be just a couple of households, or even one person. Still, what matters here is that this hand...
119 ly-owned hotels, establishments that are almost always booked. A school is an organization that best reflects the futu...
120   KHEVSURETI its first steps, also the Administration of the Border Police are the public institutions that keep the r...
region abounds with jvari-khati shrines and traditional houses of prayers of highlanders, small schist-covered religious b...
122   KHEVSURETI  Generally, Shota Arabuli is a very exciting person to meet. His house, which also operates as a family-r...
123 broidery masterclasses. Before crossing the Datvisjvari Pass, we recommend dropping by the Colored Abudelauri Lakes. T...
124   KHEVSURETI  of Juta, in the Kazbegi District. This trail with comprehensive signage is frequently used by both Georg...
125 sure you grab warm clothes and a good raincoat, because sunshine may suddenly give way to rain or even snow. Ideally, ...
126   KHEVSURETI From this point onward, the road stretches along the Arghuni Gorge, with occasional narrow canyons. Anoth...
127 habilitated, and the modern New Shatili Village was built. It was in the 1980s that some of the previously resettled C...
128   KHEVSURETI  There are several hotels in historic tower villages, that is to say, arranged inside towers, and the hot...
129 you can set up your tent anywhere you please, and nobody will object, unless you are on holy ground or near a shrine. ...
130   KHEVSURETI  Outpatient clinics staffed with qualified doctors operate in both Barisakho and Shatili. In Shatili, Mik...
131  MY PERSONAL FAVORITE Sergi Gvarjaladze, Tbilisi Mayor   s Adviser and Manager of the Nighttime Economy Project  PLACE...
132  Arts   cuture  HOUSE MUSEUMS IN TBILISI  by Tamar Esakia  Elene Akhvlediani was a woman Georgian artist. Loved by all...
133  Especially noteworthy are her urban scenery images. Instead of looking for iconic examples of architecture, be it in ...
134   ART   CULTURE  HOUSE MUSEUMS Mose Toidze  1871-1953 , a professor at the Tbilisi Academy of Fine Arts, laid the foun...
135 Mose Toidze House Museum  995 599 131 931 12 M. Laghidze Street Open from 10 AM to 6 PM, Tuesday through Sunday Closed...
136   ART   CULTURE  HOUSE MUSEUMS laid to rest. Some of the sculptor   s works are preserved at the Art Museum of Georgia...
137  played a vital role in promoting national identity. Thematically, it was quite diverse, with a special emphasis on po...
138   ART   CULTURE  HOUSE MUSEUMS  painting shop signs to make a living. He died a lonely man, and his final resting plac...
139 The museum offers English-language tour guide services. It is advisable to book your visit in advance.  entrance hall ...
140   ART   CULTURE  HOUSE MUSEUMS  career, his arrest and labeling as a public enemy   along with his cynical rehabilitat...
Wehost XP E X P LO R E G E O R G I A  I  f you are planning to visit Georgia and get an experience of travelling like a lo...
142  A Glass of Thoughts  T  his time we   re reviewing four wines with exceptionally exciting characters, those manufactu...
143 in color, and its flavor betrays sweetish aromas like caramelized nuts and sweet spices. This wine is perfect with roa...
144   ENTERTAINMENT  Summer 2019  A R T A N D S H OW S I N T B I L I S I  SPACEHALL  SOLOMUN   COSMIC LOVE ROTATION TADE J...
145  DAY PARTY WITH AVALON EMERSON  June 22  A new entertainment destination has emerged on Kus Tba     Turtle Lake    in ...
146   ENTERTAINMENT  BLACK SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL July 18-20  TBILISI COURTYARD JANSUGH KAKHIDZE   S THEMES  June 23, 20 00 Vak...
147  JESSIE J  August 6     I really didn   t want to work on new music. I   m done.    I remember saying it out loud. I c...
148   ENTERTAINMENT  ECHOWAVES FESTIVAL ANAKLIA  August 22-25  EchoWaves is an electronic music festival that invites you ...